|
Click
n' Return:
Trip
Kickoff Page
Week Four Page
Main
Intro
Page
|
DAY
TWENTY-SEVEN COMMENTARY (Page One)
I
was up with the sun -- which is to
say, at about 6:30 AM -- yet I still somehow didn’t leave camp
until more like 9 AM. Or possibly 10 AM, depending on who you ax.
Even after a few days, I still cannot really make up my mind what
time it is, since the state of Arizona does not recognize daylight
saving time, while Navajo Nation does, and meanwhile as I think I’ve
mentioned, my cell phone will automatically change the time it
displays depending on which state it is pulling a signal from. Got
all that? Maybe the ants know what time it is, though I haven’t
seen even one of them since I cleared them out yestiddy. On the other
hand, there
are these two pretty mean lookin’ crows perched on a tree branch
directly above the tent; if they start bombing me, they are in for a
world of hurt, to be delivered by
whatever weapons I can lay
my hands on.
ITEM:
I have decided that I will
visit Old Oraibi after all, and subsequently will
try to find the Hopi Indian gentleman who my hostess, from two weeks
and 2,300
riding miles ago
in
Fredericksburg, TX, told me about. It’ll be fully one hundred miles
and probably three hours directly in the opposite direction of travel
for today. But I thought about it, perhaps while I slept, perhaps
this morning, I don’t really know when, and bottom line is this:
after all this time, and distance, and experience, and, like, life,
how could I not try to find this dude? Consider:
on July 13th,
completely at random in the lobby bar of the Knoxville (TN) Crowne
Plaza -- 1,700 miles as the crow flies from where my sorry arse
currently finds itself, but some 4,700 miles as
The Chief (tm)
rides -- a guy I’ve never met, at a bar I shouldn’t have been in,
tells me I should check out the oldest continually inhabited village
in North America if, y’know, my travels take me this way. Two weeks
and 2,200 riding miles after that, in F-Burg, I meet and am welcomed
into the home of a woman who knows a Hopi tribal advocate personally,
and gives me the low-down on everything. And after all that, this
morning I’m
only a hundred miles away. To not go, now?
What am I
doing out here, then?
It
is an absolutely beautiful day for
motorcycle riding: sunny and bright, yet not very hot, and with a
light breeze making itself recognized almost exactly when one wishes
for it. The road out of Tuba City climbs, it dips; it cuts through ridges, it
curves
over dry washes, it passes by the abandoned
Coal Mine Mesa settlement
(click to read a very detailed account of the
political forces which have carved up this entire area, and created
tensions between the previously amenable Navajo and Hopi people some
150 years ago). Finally the road climbs a bit and stays up
there, and this is
the Black Mesa on the side away from the coal mine I saw yesterday,
presiding in its natural state over the grasslands below.
Upon
Black Mesa there are further
divisions referred to as First Mesa, Second Mesa, and Third Mesa.
From the direction I was coming, Third Mesa appears first, and this
is where the town of Old Oraibi is found. I posed for a picture
in
front of the sign
announcing the gravel road turn-off, and took a
shot of the town from
afar. This is as close as I wanted to get
whilst swinging a camera around, as I had already learned that the
Hopi do not prefer to have their photographs taken. In fact, such a
request appears on the wooden sign down near the beginning of the
town area -- “No Pictures Please”. Needless to say, I wasn’t
about to ignore that directive, so when I got down there, I thought,
you know, why not sketch the town instead?
Wouldn’t that be
just about the most elegant way to do it -- to directly record what
it is that I saw, and felt, with my own hands?
The
cleanest sheets of paper I had were
a textured ivory selection, better for resume printing than for
sketching, and the only pencil I had was the one that I believe may
have already been in one of the storage pockets of the bike when I
bought it
four years ago. All it does is to write down odometer readings after
refuelings, and it has no eraser, and I’m sure I’ve never
sharpened it…yet here it was, being pressed into service for merely
the most important ninety minutes of its life. And there I was --
leaning on the tailbag of the bike, still fully dressed, out in the
sun, sketching, trying to blur with my fingertips, taking note of the
two or three cars and one sightseeing van that passed by. Couldn’t
care less if they were going in there and breaking the main rule --
I
was doing it right. So despite the fact that
neither the paper nor the pencil were terribly
good for either the sketching or for displaying digitally, I
am very
happy with the way it turned
out, and if you want to see it in person
you must travel to Surfside Beach, SC, where it now resides.
After
packing up, um, all of my art
supplies and getting back to the main road, I was about to turn right
(east) to head to the village of Kykotsmovi, where I thought I
recalled being told that my Hopi fellow lived (and while we’re at
it, let’s henceforth refer to him as “CJ”). Just before I did,
something made me realize he was in the village of Hotevilla instead,
back towards the west, in the direction I’d eventually go to
continue my journey for the day. I took the turn-off and passed only
a handful of houses; I was wondering what my play would be, whether
to see if I could see anyone in any of them, or maybe to knock on a
door, or who knows what, but soon enough I saw the local grocery so I
pulled over and went in.
The
place was pretty big and looked
like it had some interesting food, not to mention that it was
probably the public social gathering-type place for the village. I
was the only one in there and I wasn’t terribly upset to conclude
that I was probably being given the once-over by the proprietress,
who was likely skeptical of most gringos who strolled in here -- not
to mention ones decked out in motorcycling togs -- and probably had
every right to be. But here was the thing: I probably wasn’t
going to get anywhere if I couldn’t get any answers from anyone, so
I asked her plain and simple if she could tell me where CJ lived, and
I explained that I was directed to him by a personal and spiritual
friend of his from back in Texas. Let’s face it: it was all
completely the truth, and I couldn’t have delivered it any
differently if I had tried.
Well,
after a few seconds I suppose,
she started to speak, and she had apparently decided to tell me where
he lived. I was not to receive any street name or number -- perhaps
these don’t really exist in villages like this? -- but she was
outlining it with a pen on the countertop. She told me to go past a
few kavis and then bear right at the fork. The directions were fine
in and of themselves, but I had to sheepishly ask what a “kavi”
was, because it sounded important. And she told me that they were the
stone homes built into the ground, so that they were partly
subterranean. We then realized that she had just drawn, in ink, all
over her countertop! Fortunately she wasn’t too worried about that.
Having
gotten the info I needed, I had to take care of one other thing, so I
asked if the hot pickles were good -- because they sure looked like
they were -- and after a response in the affirmative, one of them found
itself along for the ride.
Making
a right and heading deeper into
the village, away from the main road, the surface turned to dirt, and
then became somewhat sandy to boot -- not easy to handle. On my
left, there were three young boys, perhaps between the ages of three
and six, not wearing a stitch of clothing, bathing in a pool of water
collected in a pit in the ground in front of their little house. I
came to the kavis and made a left as directed; paddling the
rig
around in the sand, I was no longer recognizing
anything that the lady at the grocery store had included in her
directions. Radiator cooling fan blowing constantly now on the bike, not making
much progress, looked like it was going to be door-to-door time,
though at least I was closer now than I was before.
Then
I saw a few younger guys working
on a roof nearby, so I let the bike slide itself in their general
direction and asked if they knew my man. The
first gentleman off the ladder said he did, and that he would walk me
over just a couple dozen yards away behind us. This was very thoughtful, except
that I couldn’t turn the rig around in the sand, so instead I went
“around the block” again and came to the house to which I was being
led.
I
tried to park as non-threateningly
close to the front door as I could -- without dropping the sidestand
into a pile of sand and sending the whole thing crashing to the
ground, that is. A man in his mid- to late-forties emerged from the
house and began to approach me. Fortunately I had time to remove my
helmet, gloves and earplugs before he got to me, to look at least a
little more human, and I asked if he was, y'know, my man. Even now,
after all this, I was not really prepared when he said that he was.
People! After weeks and weeks, and across thousands of miles, I HAD FOUND CJ.
I
introduced myself and said that we
had never met nor spoken, but that I had been directed to seek him
out by a now-mutual friend back in Fredericksburg. Trying desperately
not to sound, um, desperate, I dropped my last few remaining keywords to
legitimize
my contact back in the Lone Star State...and I was invited in to his
home. The family was there, and the family pooch, and there were some
wonderful aromas coming from the kitchen. Conversation seemed slow,
but I realize it was just my perception of it -- I was nervous, as I
felt I was imposing on his time. I know it would be popular to say
that I am fond of talking, and I could not reasonably disagree with
such an observation, but it is also true that I am inquisitive about
things I know little about, and in the end typically ask just as many
questions as I answer. Well, in all seriousness, I somehow managed to ask him almost no
questions
whatsoever; for instance, what was his role there? Why and how did he
and the Texas lass come to meet? How did she help him, and
vice-versa? No, I allowed my nervousness to preclude asking any of
this, and now I have literally come away from an almost
transcendental meeting knowing almost nothing further about the man,
at least, nothing in his own words, of his own telling. What a
jackass, huh?
OK,
so, as bad as all this was, I tried to salvage the situation by
buying some of the food that was being prepared, destined as it was
for the upcoming village food festival. Here, too, I apparently
couldn't be bothered to find out what that
was all about either -- its purpose, frequency, etc. Therefore, I
again came away from a chance meeting with a gentleman of a wholly
different culture, and life, with little to no understanding of what
made it different. A rare miss, and non-follow-through, by The Chief
(tm), and a most regrettable one at that, I am forced to admit.
Little could I guess that I was about
to become immersed with people of the Hopi nation on the much more
personal level I had originally hoped for, as innocuous as the start of
the episode was. Returning to the main part of the village, I
carefully picked my way between the sand and humps in the road --
noting that the boys in the "pool" in front of their kavi had
apparently gone inside -- and
stopped at the tiny little Post Office to mail the Oraibi sketch back
east. Upon exiting the shed/building, I found myself blocking the path
of five
schoolgirls, perhaps between the ages of nine and twelve, on their
way back home. Something about my appearance -- the mesh jacket, the
boots, the hydration pack...or perhaps simply my non-Native skin
coloring -- got their attention, and I was soon at the
center of a barrage of youthful, yet well-thought out questions. For
instance, regarding when I was out on the road on the bike, one of
them wanted to know what happened if I felt hot (I drank some water
from the hydration pack). What if I “had to go to the bathroom”?
Tougher one, but the answer I gave was, “the same as what happens
when someone is in a car!” (WOW -- talk about an excellent non-answer!
Mebbe I should become a politician.) Talk turned to school, to the ice
cream
pop that one of them was eating (making her lips and fingers -- and everything she touched -- bright
red), and so on. When it became known that I had grown up in
New York, one of them leaned in close and said -- not so much asking
but stating, in hushed, somber tones -- “you can't see the
stars in New York.” I had to tell them they were pretty much right
on that one, or at least you certainly couldn't see as many stars as
I imagine they could out here. It was a real riot, as you could see
their different personalities manifesting themselves over the course of
the conversation.
Eventually
they went to leave, but when
they got about fifty feet away they asked my name, and wondered how
they could remember it. I jokingly explained about the
idea of signing someone's cast when they broke an arm or something.
Well, they were all silent for a few seconds, looking at each other,
and then they came marching back over to where I was standing. I
looked at them, my body language trying to ask what was up, when the
“leader” of the group -- or, at least, the oldest and/or most
mature -- stuck her arm out in preparation for me to sign it.
I cracked up! I had to tell them I couldn't do that because their
mothers would kill me! The
youngest
one asked if they could write me a note, and of course I said sure,
so she took a sheet from a notepad
and they all signed it
for me. But
then I thought of something else I thought they'd love -- even
though it would do nothing to help them remember my own name. Since I
had previously painted those white stripes onto the trailer in
preparation for writing new destinations onto them (see Day
Twenty-Five ), and a few
hadn't been used yet, I told them
they
could all sign their names into one of the blank spaces. Thrilled to
do so, they took turns, using the only two colored dry markers that
hadn't already fallen off of my tank bag, somewhere back across this great country of ours
I
sensed that our meeting was nearly
over, but for a moment it was rescued, as their teacher came walking
by and we all chatted briefly. It was then that I realized how great
it would be to get a picture of the girls posing near the trailer
they had just signed, especially as a balance to the shot of the two
brothers back in Sanderson, TX.
The problem with this, of which I was already aware:
the
Hopi, remember, do not care to have their picture taken. Now, having
just spent an hour as an ambassador for the outside culture, and
exchanging reassuring pleasantries with each adult who passed by, I
thought I might have had a shot at avoiding the
“ugly
American” tag -- even had I asked the teacher if one little picture
was OK to capture the moment for the website. In the end, though, I
decided that as a mark of respect, I wouldn't even ask, and I didn't.
As such, you will have to interpret what you will from this charming
picture. Can you believe that one of them wrote “Thanks”, to me? Ladies, the
"thanks" for an uber-pleasant
hour were utterly, completely, and unforgettably mine.
On to Page Two |
|